The Best Autumn Squash Soup

There's something about early fall that really makes me crave intensely flavorful, deeply colored soups and stews that are healthy but totally fulfilling. This soup is one of my favorite fall standards, and it's easy to tell why--it's intensely pumpkin in color, luscious on the tongue, super-healthy (chock full of Vitamin A, natch), and is easy to create on a weeknight. The original recipe for this Silky Butternut Squash Soup, which you can make with any hard winter squash (acorn and pumpkin would be good), is from Cook's Illustrated's Fall Entertaining from 2007.

Being the huge nerd that I am, I love that Cook's Illustrated really explains the reasoning behind their recipes. The secret to this recipe is that all the "guts" of the squash are simmered in water then strained out of the final product, which produces an incredibly flavorful yet simple soup.

The original recipe called for heavy cream, but since I had none in stock I left it out. I drizzled the finished product with freshly grated nutmeg and heady white truffle oil, which I use in everything I can, but other good garnishes include a thick aged balsamic vinegar or a smattering of paprika.

No picture for this recipe--yet--because I starting slurping as soon as the soup left the pot! I'll post some the next time I make this, which should be soon.

Beverage note: Dry riesling or Gruner Veltliner would be great here!

Makes 6 Cups, Serving 8 As A First Course

To make ahead: The soup may be completed up to 2 days ahead of time and stored in an airtight container in the fridge. Warm the soup gently over medium-low heat before serving.

4 tbsp unsalted butter
2 medium shallots, minced (abt 4 tbsp)
3 pounds butternut squash (about 1 large; 2 acorn squash, kabocha pumpkin, etc can be
subbed), unpeeled, squash halved lengthwise, seeds and stringy fibers scraped with spoon and reserved (about 1/4 cup), and each half cut into quarters
Table salt
1/2 cup heavy cream (optional)
1 tsp dark brown sugar

1. Heat butter in large Dutch oven (or a large heavy-bottomed pot) over medium-low heat until foaming subsides; add shallots and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and translucent, about 3 min. Add squash scrapings and seeds and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and butter turns saffron color, about 4 min. Add 6 cups water and 1 1/2 tsp salt to pot and bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat to medium-low, place squash cut-side down in steamer basket, and lower basket into pot. Cover and steam until squash is completely tender, about 30 minutes. Off heat, use tongs to transfer squash to rimmed baking sheet; reserve steaming liquid. When cool enough to handle, use large spoon to scrape flesh from skin into medium bowl; discard skin.

2. Pour reserved steaming liquid through mesh strainer into second bowl; discard solids in strainer. Rinse and dry Dutch oven.

3. In blender (or put everything in the pot, and use an immersion blender), puree squash and reserved liquid in batches, pulsing on low until smooth. Transfer puree to pot, stir in cream and brown sugar and heat over medium-low heat until hot. Add salt to taste; serve immediately.

Bring On The Zins!

Okay: before I begin this post, a caveat--chili is really hard to photograph and make look pretty. So don't judge the food based on how it looks below--it is REALLY REALLY TASTY, I promise. Have I ever let you down before?!?!

So after that false start--HAPPY FALL!!! Welcome to my favorite season of the year! It is the time of Oktoberfest lagers, pumpkin (pies, ales, seeds toasted with rosemary, whatever), crunchy leaves that you go just a bit out of your way to step on, roasts, root vegetables, stews, and spiked apple cider (heavy on the apple brandy). Especially during this early part of the fall, we've still got all the gorgeous late-summer vegetables lingering even as a snappy cold character enters the air. It's the best of both worlds.

I'm a big fan of stew-and-bread combos during this season, and this post is no exception. To me, there is nothing better than a healthy, hearty chili, stew, or soup paired with a buttery, less-healthy bread (sorry, but bread without butter or cheese isn't worth the flour it's baked with. And don't give me that white-flour-is-bad-for-you nonsense, everything is good in moderation. I promise!). If you insist, you can nix the biscuits in this recipe, and I'll just pretend it didn't happen.

The great thing about this Chipotle Chili and Baking Powder Drop Biscuits recipe combo is how flexible both recipes are. The original recipe for the Chipotle Chili calls for ground turkey, for example, but you can easily sub in ground beef if it is all you have (it will be fattier, but so what? Maybe cut down on the butter in the biscuits if that's the case). You can also add more tomatoes or beans to your heart's content; I majorly upped the spice content by adding an entire can of chipotle chilis in adobe sauce. The Baking Powder Biscuits are quite similar--you can add grated cheese and/or cayenne pepper, like I did, or make them with other binding ingredients (yogurt, buttermilk, etc). Since I don't keep buttermilk or plain yogurt on hand, I added jalapeno cheddar to the mix, which went really well with the spicy chili (if you do want to use buttermilk or yogurt, bring it down to 7/8 cup and bring the baking powder down to 3 tsp).

The Chipotle Chili is originally by Rachael Ray (shaddup, she may be annoying but she's a damn good cook), and the Baking Powder Biscuits are from the trusty How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman.

Beverage Selections: The drinky-drink world is your oyster here. I love this chili with a spicy, rich Zinfandel, perhaps from California, or another hearty red like Shiraz--basically anything that goes with barbecue will go with this chili. If you're not a red-wine drinker, pick a white that will stand up to the spices in the dish--think of what you would drink with, say, Indian food (maybe an off-dry Riesling or Gewurtztraminer). Beer-wise, I would love to have this with Bell's Two-Hearted Ale, Magic Hat's Jinx, or even Blue Moon Harvest Moon (or similar pumpkin-scented ales). Enjoy!!

I may not be pretty, but my flavors are in the right place.

Buttery, cheesy, flaky warm biscuits are the perfect accompaniment for hot chili.

Chipotle Chili--serves four, generously

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
5 cloves garlic, chopped (I used more. Of course)
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons chili powder (Used more of this as well. Mexican-style works well here)
1 teaspoon dried oregano (Skipped this. Subbed cumin)
1 tablespoon tomato paste (Skipped this--didn't have on hand. Subbed more adobe sauce)
1 chipotle chile en adobo, coarsely chopped, with 1 tablespoon sauce (No--used the whole can)
1 pound ground turkey (try healthy turkey breast, or low-fat ground beef, preferably organic)
1 (12-ounce) Mexican lager-style beer (I used Sam Adams Boston Lager)
1 (14 1/2-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, with their juice (I used diced--no need to chop!)
1 (15 1/2-ounce) can kidney beans, rinsed and drained (You can also sub black beans here)
Optional: Sliced scallions, cilantro sprigs, avocado, sour cream, grated Monterey jack cheese, and/or tortilla chips, for garnish (we didn't use any of these--the biscuits are accompaniment enough)

Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, salt, chili powder, and oregano (and/or cumin) and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and the chipotle chile and sauce; cook 1 minute more. Add the turkey, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, and cook until the meat loses its raw color, about 3 minutes. Add the beer and simmer until reduced by about half, about 8 minutes. Add the tomatoes--crushing them through your fingers into the skillet--along with their juices and the beans; bring to a boil. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until thick, about 10 minutes.

Ladle the chili into bowls and serve with the garnishes of your choice.

Bittman's Baking-Powder Drop Biscuits--recipe yields about 10-12 biscuits; I usually halve the recipe

2 cups (about 9 oz) all-purpose or cake flour, plus more as needed
1 scant tsp salt
4 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
2-5 tbsp cold butter
1 cup milk (if you're using nonfat or lowfat milk, compensate with more butter)
Optional: 1/2 cup grated cheese, like cheddar, gruyere, fontina, blue, or parmesan, along with 1/4 tsp cayenne

1. Preheat oven to 450

2. Mix dry ingredients together in a bowl or food processor (food processor is easiest here). Cut the butter into bits and either pulse it in the food processor or pick up a bit of the dry ingredients, rub them with the butter between your fingers, and drop them again (just buy the food processor). All the butter should be thoroughly blended before proceeding.

3. Use a large spoon to stir in the milk and cheese, if using, just until the mix forms a ball. Drop tablespoons (or about 1.5 tbsp, if you like bigger biscuits, like I do) onto a greased baking sheet (I like Pam for baking).

4. Bake 8-10 minutes, or until the biscuits are a beautiful golden brown--be careful not to overcook!! Serve within 15 minutes, preferably dunked into steaming bowls of chili.

I'm In Love With Andrea Immer

My favorite cookbook of all time, you ask? Why, that would be Everyday Dining with Wine, by the indomitable Andrea Immer, wine goddess and chef extraordinaire. In this book, Andrea walks you step by step through all the varietals, and offers up gorgeously delicious recipes that are well-matched to particular categories of grapes. Admittedly, however, since Chris and I don't drink much on weekdays we often eat Andrea's food without wine. And it is still AMAZINGLY GOOD.

Andrea's Linguine with Walnuts, Arugula and Olives is one of my favorites from the book so far (others include the Yukon Gold Potato and Cauliflower Soup with Truffle Oil, the Warm Wild Mushroom Salad with Black Truffle Vinaigrette, the Oven-Crisped Potatoes with Thyme and Pumpkinseed Oil...honestly the list goes on and on). In this recipe, the pasta isn't surrounded by tame-tasting liquid--it's enrobed in olive oil "spiked" with a few intense ingredients--fleur de sel, peppery arugula, salty olives, garlic, parmigiano-reggiano, and toasted walnut pieces. The combination is making my mouth water just thinking about it. So try it!!

Note: Andrea recommends pairing this dish with Cabernet Sauvignon--she notes that "the toasty walnuts and arugula highlight the toastiness of oak in the wines, while the vegetal flavors of the olives and arugula pick up Cabernet's cedary-tobacco-minty notes."

Ingredients
1 pound linguine fini or other thin, flat noodle
1/3 cup walnut pieces
2 tbsp olive oil
3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 cups tightly packed baby arugula leaves, washed and dried
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil (plus more for drizzling, if desired)
1/3 cup pitted, chopped black olives
1/4 cup grated Manchego or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
Coarse sea salt such as fleur de sel

1. Add a tbsp of salt to a large pot filled with 4 quarts of water. Bring to a boil. Add pasta and cook to al dente.

2. While pasta is cooking, place walnuts in a large dry skillet over medium heat, shaking the pan frequently, and cook until browned and fragrant, 3-4 min. Set aside to cool slightly, then chop roughly and reserve.

3. In the same skillet heat the 2 tbsp olive oil on medium, and add the garlic. Cook, stirring, until the garlic begins to soften and turn golden, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

4. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta water, and transfer it to the skillet with the garlic. Turn heat to medium. Stir in the arugula and the 1/4 cup olive oil and toss to coat the pasta with the oil and wilt the arugula. Stir in the walnuts and olives, tossing to combine. If the pasta seems dry, add a little of the reserved pasta water.

5. Remove the pasta from the heat and drizzle with a little more olive oil, if desired. Stir in the cheese, adding more to taste, black pepper, and a sprinkling of the fleur de sel. Serve immediately.

Linguine Carbonara, Redeemed (Partly!)

My boss at work, whom I adore, passed me this recipe by Jamie Oliver for "Beautiful Zucchini Carbonara"--basically penne, luscious carbonara sauce, bacon, and zucchini melded together. Anyone who knows me knows I am OBSESSED with creating the perfect carbonara, and this recipe comes really darn close. The use of some starchy pasta water in the sauce makes it creamy and lush, but not too thick and eggy; the use of only egg yolks, not whites, prevents curdling; the zucchini adds an extremely pleasing smoky, tender note; and the copious amount of freshly cracked black pepper prevents the feeling I get from most carbonaras--"this is tasty, but it's missing something!" This is definitely my favorite carbonara recipe yet, and I've tried many. One thing to note is that carbonara does not reheat well, so this recipe basically begs for a pasta pig-out fest--or lots of guests crowding around the pan.

I tweaked this recipe a bit. First, I used linguine fini instead of penne, because the idea of doing carbonara with anything besides long pasta leaves me befuddled. I cut the zucchini into slender strips, so that it could be scooped up easily on the fork along with the strands of pasta. I also used lean center-cut bacon and poured out all but one tbsp of bacon fat after rendering it down in the pan. I also used half-and-half instead of cream, with great results (gotta cut down the fat somewhere!). Lastly, I tossed out the thyme/zucchini flower recommendations--I couldn't be fussed on a weeknight. The recipe below notes all of these changes, but the original recipe can be accessed above via the hyperlink.

The zucchini-bacon mixture in the pan. Note the copious amounts of black pepper!

Not the best shot--but still yummy-looking nonetheless.

So ready for its close-up.

Ingredients

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3-4 medium green and yellow zucchini
1 pound linguine fini or other long flat thin pasta
4 large free-range or organic egg yolks
1/2 cup half-and-half
2 good handfuls freshly grated Parmesan
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil
12 thick slices pancetta or lean bacon, cut into chunky pieces

Before you start cooking, it's important to get yourself a very large pan, or use a high-sided roasting pan so you can give the pasta a good toss.

Put a large pan of salted water on to boil. Halve and then quarter any larger zucchini lengthwise. Cut out and discard any fluffy middle bits, and slice the zucchini into slender strips (a bit larger than julienne). Your water will now be boiling, so add the penne to the pan and cook according to the package instructions.

To make your creamy carbonara sauce, put the egg yolks into a bowl, add the half-and-half and half the Parmesan, and mix together with a fork. Season lightly with salt and pepper and set aside.

Heat a very large frying pan (a 14-inch is a good start - every house should have one!), add a good splash of olive oil and fry the pancetta or bacon until dark brown and crisp. Pour out excess fat, if desired. Add the zucchini slices and 2 big pinches of black pepper, not just to season but to give it a bit of a kick. Give everything a stir, so the zucchini is coated with all the lovely bacon-flavored oil, and fry until they start to turn lightly golden and have softened slightly.

It's very important to get this next bit right or your carbonara could end up ruined. You need to work quickly. When the pasta is cooked, drain it, reserving a little of the cooking water. Immediately, toss the pasta in the pan with the zucchini, bacon and lovely flavors, then remove from the heat and add a ladleful of the reserved cooking water and your creamy sauce. Stir together quickly. (No more cooking now, otherwise you'll scramble the eggs.)

Get everyone around the table, ready to eat straightaway. While you're tossing the pasta and sauce, sprinkle in the rest of the Parmesan and a little more of the cooking water if needed, to give you a silky and shiny sauce. Taste quickly for seasoning. Eat immediately, as the sauce can become thick and stodgy if left too long.

Ridiculously Yummy Summery Soup

What comes to mind when you think of minestrone soup? Chunks of too-soft carrots, potatoes, and peas? Globules of starchy, overcooked pasta? A salty broth, perhaps with a tomatoe-y tang?

Now turn your conception of minestrone around 180 degrees, and TRY THIS SOUP. This version of minestrone--featured in a 2007 article in LA Times that was recently published as an "encore"--includes lots of summer vegetables in a parmesan-scented vegetarian broth (the whole soup can be made vegan, even), and is topped with an incredibly flavorful garlic-and-parsley pistou. I made the soup as a tribute to the summer diet gods, but it has turned into a new obsession. I'll be making it again this weekend!

Note: I topped the soup with shredded parmesan, and then a dollop of pistou. The parmesan really adds a level of unparalleled flavor. I also substituted/added several things in the recipe, and I'll note those substitutions below.



Summer minestrone with parsley pistou

Total time: About 1 hour, 40 minutes

Servings: 6 to 8

Note: From test kitchen director Donna Deane. Save the rinds from Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese to add to the soup pot. It gives added flavor and substance to this vegetarian soup.

3/4 cup olive oil, divided
1 medium onion, diced into 1/2-inch pieces (about 2 cups)
1 bulb fennel, cored and cut into 1/4-inch-thick strips
6 cloves minced garlic, divided (I used more garlic)
2 large tomatoes, cored, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (canned would also work here)
2 (2-inch) pieces Parmigiano-Reggiano rind
21/4 teaspoons salt, divided
3/8 teaspoon white pepper, divided
2 cups parsley leaves
1 yellow squash, cut into 1/4-inch pieces (about 2 cups)
1 zucchini squash, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
2 cups green beans, cut into 1-inch pieces (I'm not wild about green beans, so I used more squash instead)
1/2 cup tube pasta (such as tubetti), cooked according to package directions, about 8 minutes and drained (I subbed yukon gold potatoes, cut in 1/2 inch dice. let the chunks simmer for 25 minutes)

1. Heat one-fourth cup of the oil in a large pot over high heat until hot. Add the onion, and reduce the heat to medium. Sauté the onion until it begins to brown around the edges, about 5 minutes. Stir in the fennel and continue to sauté until the fennel is tender and just begins to brown around the edges, about 5 more minutes. Stir in 2 cloves of the minced garlic during the last minute of sautéing.

2. Add the tomatoes and 6 cups water. Stir in the cheese rinds, 2 teaspoons of the salt and one-fourth teaspoon pepper. Bring the soup to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and then cover and simmer 20 minutes. (Put the potatoes in after 5 minutes of simmering time so that they get 25 minutes total of cooking time)

3. While the soup is cooking, prepare the pistou. Purée the parsley and the remaining minced garlic cloves in a food processor. Add the remaining one-fourth teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper. With the motor running, drizzle in the remaining olive oil until emulsified. Set aside.

4. Add the squash and the beans to the pot, and continue to simmer until the beans are just cooked, about 10 minutes. Remove the Parmesan rinds from the soup, and stir in the cooked pasta. Ladle the soup into large flat bowls. Spoon a dollop of pistou onto each serving. Serve immediately.

Each serving: 251 calories; 3 grams protein; 15 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 21 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 0 cholesterol; 685 mg. sodium.

Little Morsels of Ridiculousness

Very rarely do I come across a recipe that is easy, pretty in its presentation, and insanely delicious. I made Parmesan-Stuffed Dates Wrapped in Bacon last night, and the result was a food orgasm. Dates--parmegiano reggiano--and bacon are already indulgent and delicious on their own; combining them created a captain planet-like food superhero. Words cannot describe how the sweetness of the dates, salty pungency of the parmegiano, and pork fat smokyness of the bacon combined to produce a Perfect Food. If you've ever been to A.O.C. or Cobras and Matadors and had these before, just know that for the $8.95 you spent on a tapas dish, you can make 30-something of these little critters. And we (4 of us) ate every last one. The recipe is from a 2005 issue of Gourmet.

Can you hear them? They're saying, "eat me."

I'm pretty sure that this one is now in my belly.

Lookin goooood on a simple white platter.

I doubled the recipe below, with great results.

Ingredients
18 (1- by 1/4-inch) sticks Parmigiano-Reggiano (from a 1/2-lb piece)
18 pitted dates (preferably Medjool)
6 bacon slices, cut crosswise into thirds (I used center cut bacon--30% less fat, natch--and used half a slice per date)
18 wooden picks

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 450°F.

Stuff 1 piece of cheese into each date, then wrap 1 piece of bacon around each date, securing it with a pick. Arrange dates 1 inch apart in a shallow baking pan.

Bake 5 minutes, then turn dates over with tongs and bake until bacon is crisp, 5 to 6 minutes more. Drain on a paper bag or parchment. Serve immediately.

Note: Dates can be stuffed and wrapped in bacon 1 day ahead and chilled, covered. Bring to room temperature before baking.

Chocolate Pudding Cakes (and...I'm Back!)

Yes yes, I know, it has been a very long time since I have blogged. Wedding preparations have majorly gotten in the way (how is it economically viable, I ask, that wedding invitations--the cheap, unengraved kind--cost $10 a person? how???)...Anyhoo--wah wah wah I know you missed me, but I am back, *DIGICAM IN HAND*. Please give me a round of applause, it took me 6 months to figure out how to upload photos from this thing.

Here are my sumptuous, pillowy, scrumptious pudding cakes for your perusal:

Even ignoring the loads of alcohol in the background that accompanied the consumption of these precious beauties, the pudding cakes were deeelicious. The outside has a faint crackle to it, the inside is melty and gorgeously thick--it is chocoholic paradise. And even better yet, they are super-easy to make, and can even be prepped in advance--perfect for a party.

This is another recipe from The Essence of Chocolate, from my high school bestie (and bridesmaid-to-be) Lauren. Use the best chocolate possible with this--I recommend Valrhona or Scharffenberger.

Alcohol note: we had these with a classic 10-year tawny port--I highly recommend the budget-friendly Whiskers Blake brand.

Ingredients
Unsalted butter or butter spray for the ramekins
1/4 to 1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder for coating the ramekins
7 ounces 99% unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped
2 cups heavy cream
8 tbsp (4 oz) unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch chunks
1 1/3 cups granulated sugar
2 tbsp cornstarch
1/2 tsp salt
4 large eggs
Whipped Cream (optional)

Serves 8-10 (bigger ramekins-->fewer servings)

1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 325.

2. Butter (I used butter baking spray) ten 5-6 oz ramekins and coat the insides with cocoa powder.

3. Place the chocolate in a medium bowl.

4. In a medium saucepan, bring the cream and butter to a simmer over medium heat. Turn off the heat, add the chocolate, and let sit for 1 minute to melt the chocolate. Whisk until the chocolate has melted completely and the mixture is smooth.

5. Position a fine-mesh strainer over a large measuring cup with a spout. In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch, and salt. Whisk in the eggs. While whisking, gradually add the chocolate mixture. Strain into the measuring cup and divide the batter evenly between the ramekins. (The ramekins can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Bring to room temp before baking.)

6. Bake until the surface is puffed and cracked, about 30 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes before serving (if you can wait that long!). Serve warm with whipped cream, if desired.