Saturday, November 29, 2008
So Good We Forgot to Take a Picture
Chris and I were ravenous when I made this Tagliatelle with Chestnuts, Pancetta, and Sage--from a 2005 issue of Gourmet--and it turned out even better than I could have hoped for. Yes, the chestnuts were remarkably expensive at the grocery store (11.99 a jar--I probably shouldn't have bought them right before Thanksgiving, when the price was probably jacked up), but the pasta honestly tasted like a 50-dollar creation. The combination of the sage and chestnuts creates a crumbly, heady sauce that enrobes every delicate strand of egg pasta. As usual, we didn't have pancetta on hand, so I subbed bacon, which was completely fine. I used all the sage that I had on hand, and it didn't overwhelm the other flavors one bit.
Beverage Note: Chris and I had a bottle of wine with this dish (per usual), but I honestly can't remember what the varietal was. The pasta blew my memory of the vino to bits. Yes, this pasta is that good--just try it!!!
Serves 3-4
3 ounces pancetta (Italian unsmoked cured bacon), chopped (scant 1 cup)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage (I used an entire package of sage. It was worth it)
8 ounces bottled peeled roasted whole chestnuts, coarsely crumbled (1 1/2 cups)
8 ounces dried flat egg pasta such as tagliatelle or fettuccine
2 ounces finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1 cup)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Cook pancetta in oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until beginning to brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add onion and cook, stirring frequently, until beginning to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add garlic and 1 tablespoon sage and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in chestnuts and remove from heat.
Cook pasta in a 6- to 8-quart pot of boiling salted water according to package directions. Reserve 1 1/2 cups cooking water, then drain pasta in a colander and add to pancetta mixture in skillet. Add 1 cup reserved cooking water along with cheese and butter and cook, tossing constantly, over high heat until pasta is well coated (add more reserved water if necessary), about 1 minute. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve sprinkled with parsley and remaining tablespoon sage.
Saturday, October 25, 2008
I Really, Really Love Gnocchi
The recipe, Montalcino Chicken with Figs and Buttered Gnocchi with Nutmeg is from Rachael Ray's Express Lane Meals. This dish isn't as all-out yummy as some of Rachael's other creations, but the gnocchi alone make it worth it. I'm very particular about my brand of gnocchi--the ones available at Trader Joe's are quite good--but my ultimate favorite are the sweet potato gnocchi from Gia Russa, which are available at CostPlus World Market. The sweet potato gnocchi cut down on the glycemic index of the gnocchi, since they're made with nutrient-rich sweet potatoes and whole wheat flour, and their slightly sweet, slightly caramelized flavors go very well with this dish.
Beverage Note: Chris and I drank a delightful bottle of sangiovese with this meal--that's also the wine that we used in the fig-chicken sauce.


1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil (I didn't need much olive oil, since the bacon was pretty fatty)
1/3 pound thick-cut (1/4 inch thick) pancetta, cut into sticks (or sub bacon, like I did)
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken, breasts and thighs, cut into large chunks
Salt and black pepper
Flour, for dredging
1 large onion, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, crushed
14 to 16 dried black mission figs, quartered
1/3 bottle Rosso di Montalcino wine (or any other dry red wine)
1 cup chicken stock plus up to 1/2 cup more if needed
1/4 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, a generous handful, chopped
Zest of one lemon
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, 4 sprigs
1 12-to-16 ounce package fresh or frozen gnocchi
3 tbsp unsalted butter
1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
3 tbsp chopped or snipped chives, 10 blades
1. Place a pot of water on the stove to boil for the gnocchi.
2. Heat a deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add the oil and the pancetta or bacon, and brown it for 3-4 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve.
3. While the pancetta browns, season the chicken chunks with salt and pepper and dredge them in a little flour (I put the flour in a gallon-size freezer bag and shook the chicken in it, shake-and-bake style). After removing the pancetta/bacon from the pan, add the chicken. Brown the pieces for a few minutes on each side over high heat, then scoot the meat to the edges of the pan and add the onion, garlic, and figs. Saute 5 minutes, combine the chicken with the onions and figs, then add the wine and cook it down for 5 minutes or so until only 1/3 cup of liquid remains. Add 1 cup of the chicken stock, the parsley, lemon zest, and thyme to the chicken and stir to combine. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for another 10 minutes, while you make the gnocchi.
4. Add salt and gnocchi to the boiling water and cook them according to the package directions. Drain. Heat a medium nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Melt the butter and brown it (til it smells nice and nutty). Add the drained gnocchi to the browned butter. Raise the heat to medium high and lightly brown the gnocchi. Season the gnocchi with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and add the chives. Toss and remove from heat.
5. Adjust the seasonings on the chicken with figs. If you would like a little more sauce, add another half cup of stock to the pan. Serve the chicken and figs in shallow dishes, the gnocchi piled in the center of the bowl on top of the chicken. Garnish with the crisp pancetta/bacon sticks.
Friday, October 10, 2008
An Ode to Truffle Oil
Beverage note: Andrea recommends drinking this with stainless-steel fermented or barrel-fermented white burgundies. I went the trashy route and had a rum-spiked cocktail with it (hey, it's Friday!).

1 tbsp olive oil
1 shallot, finely chopped (I used 3--I really like the flavor of the shallots)
1 head cauliflower, cored and broken into florets (big florets are fine)
1 pound Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks (regular white potatoes are fine too)
1 tbsp unsalted butter
Kosher salt
Freshly ground white pepper (black pepper is fine, it'll just leave specks in the soup)
2 tbsp white truffle oil, for drizzling
1. In a large stockpot, heat the olive oil on medium and add the shallot(s). Cook, stirring frequently, until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes.
2. Add the cauliflower and potatoes to the pot. Cover with cold water. Turn the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and cook at a simmer, uncovered, until the cauliflower and potatoes are tender, 15-17 minutes.
3. Remove from heat and drain (I drained the water into a fine-mesh sieve, so I wouldn't lose any good bits), reserving some of the hot cooking liquid. Use an immersion blender to blend the cauliflower-potato mixture, with the butter, salt, and pepper, and about 1/2 cup of the hot cooking liquid, until smooth (if you don't have an immersion blender, puree the soup in batches in a regular blender). Add additional liquid as needed to reach the desired soup consistency. To serve, ladle into warm bowls and drizzle each portion with a teaspoon of truffle oil or more to taste.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
The Best Autumn Squash Soup
Being the huge nerd that I am, I love that Cook's Illustrated really explains the reasoning behind their recipes. The secret to this recipe is that all the "guts" of the squash are simmered in water then strained out of the final product, which produces an incredibly flavorful yet simple soup.
The original recipe called for heavy cream, but since I had none in stock I left it out. I drizzled the finished product with freshly grated nutmeg and heady white truffle oil, which I use in everything I can, but other good garnishes include a thick aged balsamic vinegar or a smattering of paprika.
No picture for this recipe--yet--because I starting slurping as soon as the soup left the pot! I'll post some the next time I make this, which should be soon.
Beverage note: Dry riesling or Gruner Veltliner would be great here!
Makes 6 Cups, Serving 8 As A First Course
To make ahead: The soup may be completed up to 2 days ahead of time and stored in an airtight container in the fridge. Warm the soup gently over medium-low heat before serving.
4 tbsp unsalted butter
2 medium shallots, minced (abt 4 tbsp)
3 pounds butternut squash (about 1 large; 2 acorn squash, kabocha pumpkin, etc can be
subbed), unpeeled, squash halved lengthwise, seeds and stringy fibers scraped with spoon and reserved (about 1/4 cup), and each half cut into quarters
Table salt
1/2 cup heavy cream (optional)
1 tsp dark brown sugar
1. Heat butter in large Dutch oven (or a large heavy-bottomed pot) over medium-low heat until foaming subsides; add shallots and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and translucent, about 3 min. Add squash scrapings and seeds and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and butter turns saffron color, about 4 min. Add 6 cups water and 1 1/2 tsp salt to pot and bring to a boil over high heat; reduce heat to medium-low, place squash cut-side down in steamer basket, and lower basket into pot. Cover and steam until squash is completely tender, about 30 minutes. Off heat, use tongs to transfer squash to rimmed baking sheet; reserve steaming liquid. When cool enough to handle, use large spoon to scrape flesh from skin into medium bowl; discard skin.
2. Pour reserved steaming liquid through mesh strainer into second bowl; discard solids in strainer. Rinse and dry Dutch oven.
3. In blender (or put everything in the pot, and use an immersion blender), puree squash and reserved liquid in batches, pulsing on low until smooth. Transfer puree to pot, stir in cream and brown sugar and heat over medium-low heat until hot. Add salt to taste; serve immediately.
Monday, September 22, 2008
Bring On The Zins!
So after that false start--HAPPY FALL!!! Welcome to my favorite season of the year! It is the time of Oktoberfest lagers, pumpkin (pies, ales, seeds toasted with rosemary, whatever), crunchy leaves that you go just a bit out of your way to step on, roasts, root vegetables, stews, and spiked apple cider (heavy on the apple brandy). Especially during this early part of the fall, we've still got all the gorgeous late-summer vegetables lingering even as a snappy cold character enters the air. It's the best of both worlds.
I'm a big fan of stew-and-bread combos during this season, and this post is no exception. To me, there is nothing better than a healthy, hearty chili, stew, or soup paired with a buttery, less-healthy bread (sorry, but bread without butter or cheese isn't worth the flour it's baked with. And don't give me that white-flour-is-bad-for-you nonsense, everything is good in moderation. I promise!). If you insist, you can nix the biscuits in this recipe, and I'll just pretend it didn't happen.
The great thing about this Chipotle Chili and Baking Powder Drop Biscuits recipe combo is how flexible both recipes are. The original recipe for the Chipotle Chili calls for ground turkey, for example, but you can easily sub in ground beef if it is all you have (it will be fattier, but so what? Maybe cut down on the butter in the biscuits if that's the case). You can also add more tomatoes or beans to your heart's content; I majorly upped the spice content by adding an entire can of chipotle chilis in adobe sauce. The Baking Powder Biscuits are quite similar--you can add grated cheese and/or cayenne pepper, like I did, or make them with other binding ingredients (yogurt, buttermilk, etc). Since I don't keep buttermilk or plain yogurt on hand, I added jalapeno cheddar to the mix, which went really well with the spicy chili (if you do want to use buttermilk or yogurt, bring it down to 7/8 cup and bring the baking powder down to 3 tsp).
The Chipotle Chili is originally by Rachael Ray (shaddup, she may be annoying but she's a damn good cook), and the Baking Powder Biscuits are from the trusty How to Cook Everything by Mark Bittman.
Beverage Selections: The drinky-drink world is your oyster here. I love this chili with a spicy, rich Zinfandel, perhaps from California, or another hearty red like Shiraz--basically anything that goes with barbecue will go with this chili. If you're not a red-wine drinker, pick a white that will stand up to the spices in the dish--think of what you would drink with, say, Indian food (maybe an off-dry Riesling or Gewurtztraminer). Beer-wise, I would love to have this with Bell's Two-Hearted Ale, Magic Hat's Jinx, or even Blue Moon Harvest Moon (or similar pumpkin-scented ales). Enjoy!!
Chipotle Chili--serves four, generously
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
5 cloves garlic, chopped (I used more. Of course)
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons chili powder (Used more of this as well. Mexican-style works well here)
1 teaspoon dried oregano (Skipped this. Subbed cumin)
1 tablespoon tomato paste (Skipped this--didn't have on hand. Subbed more adobe sauce)
1 chipotle chile en adobo, coarsely chopped, with 1 tablespoon sauce (No--used the whole can)
1 pound ground turkey (try healthy turkey breast, or low-fat ground beef, preferably organic)
1 (12-ounce) Mexican lager-style beer (I used Sam Adams Boston Lager)
1 (14 1/2-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, with their juice (I used diced--no need to chop!)
1 (15 1/2-ounce) can kidney beans, rinsed and drained (You can also sub black beans here)
Optional: Sliced scallions, cilantro sprigs, avocado, sour cream, grated Monterey jack cheese, and/or tortilla chips, for garnish (we didn't use any of these--the biscuits are accompaniment enough) Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, salt, chili powder, and oregano (and/or cumin) and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and the chipotle chile and sauce; cook 1 minute more. Add the turkey, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, and cook until the meat loses its raw color, about 3 minutes. Add the beer and simmer until reduced by about half, about 8 minutes. Add the tomatoes--crushing them through your fingers into the skillet--along with their juices and the beans; bring to a boil. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until thick, about 10 minutes.
Ladle the chili into bowls and serve with the garnishes of your choice.
Bittman's Baking-Powder Drop Biscuits--recipe yields about 10-12 biscuits; I usually halve the recipe2 cups (about 9 oz) all-purpose or cake flour, plus more as needed
1 scant tsp salt
4 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
2-5 tbsp cold butter
1 cup milk (if you're using nonfat or lowfat milk, compensate with more butter)
Optional: 1/2 cup grated cheese, like cheddar, gruyere, fontina, blue, or parmesan, along with 1/4 tsp cayenne
1. Preheat oven to 450
2. Mix dry ingredients together in a bowl or food processor (food processor is easiest here). Cut the butter into bits and either pulse it in the food processor or pick up a bit of the dry ingredients, rub them with the butter between your fingers, and drop them again (just buy the food processor). All the butter should be thoroughly blended before proceeding.
3. Use a large spoon to stir in the milk and cheese, if using, just until the mix forms a ball. Drop tablespoons (or about 1.5 tbsp, if you like bigger biscuits, like I do) onto a greased baking sheet (I like Pam for baking).
4. Bake 8-10 minutes, or until the biscuits are a beautiful golden brown--be careful not to overcook!! Serve within 15 minutes, preferably dunked into steaming bowls of chili.
Saturday, August 23, 2008
I'm In Love With Andrea Immer
Andrea's Linguine with Walnuts, Arugula and Olives is one of my favorites from the book so far (others include the Yukon Gold Potato and Cauliflower Soup with Truffle Oil, the Warm Wild Mushroom Salad with Black Truffle Vinaigrette, the Oven-Crisped Potatoes with Thyme and Pumpkinseed Oil...honestly the list goes on and on). In this recipe, the pasta isn't surrounded by tame-tasting liquid--it's enrobed in olive oil "spiked" with a few intense ingredients--fleur de sel, peppery arugula, salty olives, garlic, parmigiano-reggiano, and toasted walnut pieces. The combination is making my mouth water just thinking about it. So try it!!
Note: Andrea recommends pairing this dish with Cabernet Sauvignon--she notes that "the toasty walnuts and arugula highlight the toastiness of oak in the wines, while the vegetal flavors of the olives and arugula pick up Cabernet's cedary-tobacco-minty notes."

1 pound linguine fini or other thin, flat noodle
1/3 cup walnut pieces
2 tbsp olive oil
3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 cups tightly packed baby arugula leaves, washed and dried
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil (plus more for drizzling, if desired)
1/3 cup pitted, chopped black olives
1/4 cup grated Manchego or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
Coarse sea salt such as fleur de sel
1. Add a tbsp of salt to a large pot filled with 4 quarts of water. Bring to a boil. Add pasta and cook to al dente.
2. While pasta is cooking, place walnuts in a large dry skillet over medium heat, shaking the pan frequently, and cook until browned and fragrant, 3-4 min. Set aside to cool slightly, then chop roughly and reserve.
3. In the same skillet heat the 2 tbsp olive oil on medium, and add the garlic. Cook, stirring, until the garlic begins to soften and turn golden, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
4. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta water, and transfer it to the skillet with the garlic. Turn heat to medium. Stir in the arugula and the 1/4 cup olive oil and toss to coat the pasta with the oil and wilt the arugula. Stir in the walnuts and olives, tossing to combine. If the pasta seems dry, add a little of the reserved pasta water.
5. Remove the pasta from the heat and drizzle with a little more olive oil, if desired. Stir in the cheese, adding more to taste, black pepper, and a sprinkling of the fleur de sel. Serve immediately.
Saturday, October 20, 2007
Healthy Wintery Comfort Food
This recipe is from Mark Bittman's recent NYT article on "rethinking pasta"--upping the amount of sauce, and decreasing the amount of pasta, which you can find here. Sometimes I find Bittman's recipes to be boring and/or untasty (and yet his compendium is one of the best cookbooks out there), but this one hit the spot.
Pasta With Winter Squash and Tomatoes
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1/4 cup sliced shallots
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
2 cups chopped tomatoes
1 1/2 to 2 pounds peeled, cubed or shredded butternut or other winter squash, about 5 cups
1/2 pound cut pasta, like ziti or penne
Freshly chopped parsley or Parmesan for garnish.
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic, shallots and pepper flakes and cook for about a minute; add tomatoes and squash, and cook with some salt and pepper.
2. When squash is tender — about 10 minutes for shreds, 15 or so for small cubes — cook pasta until it is tender. Combine sauce and pasta, and serve, garnished with parsley or Parmesan.
Yield: 4 servings.