Saturday, August 22, 2009

Kicked-Up Paprikash

Let's be honest here--I cook not only to feed myself, but because I love hearing the compliments of my friends and family when I cook for them (humility be darned). My number-one customer, of course, is my husband--so when he demands that I post a recipe to the blog because he loves it so much, I listen.

Paprikash, while a visually striking dish, is not exactly the most photogenic. The color of the sauce--bright red-orange--is pretty one-note, and the yogurt in the sauce adds a sheen that doesn't show well on camera. The buttered caraway noodles look oddly plain, and the chunks of tender meat are hidden by that five-alarm sauce. But the flavor--kicked up by at LEAST a quarter-cup of Hungarian spicy paprika (I had to journey all the way to Budapest to buy big bags of it, but you can certainly find large portion-sizes at gourmet food stores), red bell pepper, and plain greek yogurt--is unique and soul-satisfying in the way only stews with noodles can be. If you're a ghoulash-lover, or a fan of rich beef stews chock-full of root veggies, this one's for you.


My doctor-ed up recipe includes much more paprika, and I swapped out chicken for pork in this version, since I was in a traditionalist mood. So traditionalist, even, that we had this with a bottle of that classic Hungarian wine, Egri Bikaver. Like most stews, Paprikash tastes even better on the days after which it's made, so save some for a ridiculously satisfying midday meal.

Serve the paprikash with buttered caraway noodles: simply toss al-dente cooked egg noodles with a couple tablespoons of salted butter and a generous sprinkling of caraway seeds. If you don't have salted butter, use unsalted and add salt to taste.

Pork Paprikash
Adapted--quite freely--from Cooking Light

1 tbsp oil
1-2 lbs pork (use a style good for stewing, like pork shoulder or boneless country-style ribs) or chicken tenders, cut into chunks
1 cup chopped onion
1 cup thinly sliced red bell pepper (about 1 medium)
minced garlic, to taste (I also threw in several cloves of smashed garlic--not very traditional, though)
1/4-1/2 cup whipping cream, 2% fat plain greek yogurt, or sour cream, depending on how you're feeling
4 tbsp (if you're a newbie) to 1/2 cup Hungarian spicy paprika
1 tbsp tomato paste (get the kind in a tube, next to the pasta at the grocery)
1 14.5 ounce can diced tomatoes
1/4 tsp black pepper

Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add pork or chicken; cook 5 minutes or until browned, stirring occasionally. Remove from pan, and keep warm.

Add onion, bell pepper, and garlic to pan; sauté 4 minutes or until tender. Return meat to pan. Stir in your choice of dairy and remaining ingredients; cover and simmer minutes or until meat is done and sauce is slightly thick. If you are using pork, you may wish to simmer the sauce for 20-30 minutes more to get a more tender texture.

Caramel Saturday

Today was my first sleepy Saturday in months. This summer has been incredibly hectic--that whole getting married thing, and then 2 months of constant essay-writing for business school...


But--thank goodness--I've got three essays left and more than a month to write them--which just in itself was reason enough to treat ourselves on this cloudy, humid, drizzly August DC morning. And nothing screams "decadent" to me like a meal composed entirely out of caramelized breakfast treats...


In the usual Kari style, I forgot to check whether the camera battery was charged until after the puffed pancake you see was already out of the oven (and de-puffing itself quite quickly), so I'll have to content myself with these partially-eaten photos...


I'm pretty sure this isn't one of Chris's favorite breakfasts in the world, but it certainly is mine. A custardy, caramelized, cinnamon-and-clove scented puffed Dutch apple pancake, made with a simple caramel glaze that comes together in seconds on the stovetop and results in a two-layer treat: the first crispy, buttery, and eggy; the lower layer soaked in a heady brown-sugar sauce that clings stubbornly to even the best of nonstick pans...


And the bacon, crusted in dark brown sugar, cayenne, and cinnamon, tossed easily into a hot oven until the glaze bubbles and covers every portion of the cured meat's surface, turning the humble breakfast meat into something resembling a savory lolly...

And best yet, this breakfast is the kind made for puttering about while enjoying a cup of steaming french press and listening to the rumbles of thunder outside. These aren't fussy dishes that require precise measurement or constant attention to the stove, which is great for cooks like me who don't wake up fully until they've eaten something substantial. You *could* make this dish healthier by cutting down on the butter, or substituting Egg Beaters, or using center-cut bacon instead of the good, thick-cut stuff...

But what would be the fun in that?

Puffed Apple Pancake--serves 4-6, unless you are Chris and Kari in which case it serves 2, generously
Adapted from the Gourmet Cookbook

2 Jazz apples (or McIntosh or Granny Smith), peeled, cored, and sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or OJ in a pinch
3 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar (just eyeball it)
4 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon (eyeball)
1/8 tsp ground cloves (eyeball)
3 tbsp unsalted butter
3/4 whole milk (or, if you're like me, mix together some nonfat milk and half-and-half)
3 large eggs
2/3 cup all-purpose flour (no need to weigh it)
Scant 1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
Optional garnish: confectioners' sugar

Preheat oven to 425
Toss apples with lemon juice (or OJ), brown sugar, 3 tbsp granulated sugar, cinnamon, and cloves in a bowl.
Heat 1.5 tbsp butter in an ovenproof nonstick skillet over moderate heat until foam subsides. Add apples and cook, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 4 minutes. Transfer apples and any liquid to the bowl you originally used for the apple-soaking.
Heat the cleaned skillet in the oven for 5 minutes. Combine milk, eggs, flour, remaining 1 tbsp granulated sugar, salt, and vanilla in a large bowl and whisk/blend until smooth (Gourmet says to use a blender--but seriously?!)
Remove skillet from oven. Melt remaining 1.5 tbsp butter in a skillet over moderately high heat, then pour batter into skillet. Spoon apple mixture evenly over top. Bake pancake until puffed and golden, about 17 minutes. Sprinkle with confectioners' sugar, if desired (I don't think it's necessary).

Caramelized Bacon--if using center cut, count on 4 slices per person; 3 slices for thick-cut
Bacon
Dark Brown Sugar (or Light Brown, if you must)
Cinnamon
Cayenne
Freshly cracked black pepper

Preheat the oven to somewhere between 425 and 450 (you'll just have to watch the bacon more closely at 450). Lay the bacon slices on a foiled cookie sheet, and dust heavily with the sugar, then sprinkle with cinnamon, cayenne, and black pepper to taste. Turn the bacon slices over, and repeat. Slide the cookie sheet into the oven, cook for 5-7 minutes, and then turn over and cook for an additional 3-4 minutes. Let cool slightly before serving so that the brown sugar can harden into a nice, chewy, caramel coating.